WA’s Best Bakeries

Despite the title of this Road Trip it was not just a drive on bitumen roads from bakery to bakery. It was a genuine 4WD trip with plenty of challenging, tight, overgrown tracks and spectacular scenery is some of the prettiest parts of Western Australia.

Day 1 Saturday 12 September 2020

We left Byford and headed up the Darling Scarp on Boyd Road to North Dandalup Dam for a quick look.

The drive down the Darling Scarp on Whittaker Road offers great views across the coastal plain. We crossed the South West Highway and took back roads through dairy farming country to Pinjarra.

At Burekup we turned onto Henty Road. This scenic route offers fantastic views of the Ferguson Valley and across the coastal plain to the coast. Lunch was at the third Bakery Stop – Dardanup.

After lunch we found a tiny track through the Dardanup Conservation Park.

This track brought us out onto Ironstone Road where we continued through the beautiful Ferguson Valley to Wellington Mill.

One of the State’s quirkiest tourist attractions is just down the road – Gnomesville.

From this quaint little tourist attraction we headed to the King Jarrah Tree, the largest tree in the Wellington State Forest.

Leaving this magnificent tree, we followed the track through the forest and turned onto Corbett Road. A few kilometres along the road, farmland appears on the right. At the corner of this property the track leaves the fenceline and becomes tight and overgrown.

It has been a few years since any vehicles have been along the track although it clearly was a major track at same time in the past. It opens out after about 1.7 kilometres.

We headed south to Grimwade and then Balingup, the fourth Bakery Stop. There are two bakeries/cafes here.

The road from Balingup to Nannup is one of the great drives of Australia. Every sweeping bend offers a wonderful view of forests or farmland. The river on one side, tall lush slopes on the other. Popular with motorcycle and driving enthusiasts alike, the 41 kilometres between the two towns has 90 bends.

Our overnight stay was at the Riverbend Caravan Park in Nannup.

Day 2 Sunday 13 September 2020

We took Mowen Road out of Nannup, heading for Capel – first Bakery Stop of the day.

Capel Bakery was a little overwhelmed at the sudden influx of so many customers.

Out of Boyanup through forest and farms and into the Ferguson Valley.

Richards Road (track) ends at the Forest Discovery Centre and from this location we took on the biggest challenge of the weekend – a section of powerline track.

Out of the powerline track, through the stunning Ferguson Valley again and onto Harvey through back country roads.

The Road Trip finished at Harvey. Great weather, stunning scenery, pleasant company and good four wheel driving made for a top weekend.

Kim – Holden Rodeo Dual Cab Trayback
Brad and Jane – Toyota Landcruiser Troopy Camper
Tania – Isuzu DMax Dual Cab Ute
Jodie and Keren – Toyota Landcruiser 100 Series Wagon
Paul and Imogen – Nissan Y62 Patrol Wagon
Steve and Linda – Mazda BT50 Dual Cab Ute
Nick and Fiona – Toyota Hilux Dual Cab Ute
Nathan and Kirsty Barkell – Mitsubishi Triton Dual Cab Ute
Justin and Amy – Volkswagen Amarok Dual Cab Ute
Andrew and Joanne – Toyota Prado Wagon
Mushy and Vicky – Toyota Landcruiser Troopy

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Coolgardie to Mount Jackson

Our route north of Coolgardie took us to Kunanalling, a gold mining ghost town that drew its last breath in 1942.

Kunanalling

Gold was discovered here by Speakman, Erickson and Ryan in 1892 and by 1898 the town was booming. It boasted a telegraph station, police station, court house, government school, post office, mechanics institute, blacksmith, butcher, bakery, grocer and three hotels. Its population peaked at 488 in 1899 and gradually fell away to 105 residents in 1911, then 88 in 1933. before being abandoned during the war years.

As was often the case with towns that sprang up as the result of a gold find the first name applied was in reference to the distance from Coolgardie or Kalgoorlie, hence Kunanalling was for many years known as the ’25 Mile’. Research by the Eastern Goldfield Historical Society into the aboriginal name Kunanalling that was eventually used for the town indicates that it means ‘emu droppings’. Probably dressed up a bit.

After taking photographs we continued our trek north-west.

Rowles Lagoon

40 kilometres north of Kunanalling is the remarkable Rowles Lagoon, a true oasis in a desert. Rowles Lagoon is the only freshwater wetland in the Goldfields reserved for nature conservation. Along with Clear, Muddy and Carnage Lakes that form the whole wetland, Rowles Lagoon can change dramatically over the seasons and the years. In times of drought they dry out but can flood in years of heavy rains.

Typical of so many DPaW campgrounds, treated pine poles restrict where one can camp – often the location with the best views – and, of course, the area is picked clean of firewood. These ‘attractions’ are best visited without the overnight stop. Instead, find a pristine bush camp with plenty of firewood, a good aspect and convivial company.

Finally ticked Rowles Lagoon off the list of places to visit.

Gus Luck Track

On the way to Ularring we passed the practicable end (or start) of the Gus Luck Track. This Track extends from Weowanie through Darrine, Walangie Soak, 71 Mile Rock, Urdandanging Gnamma, Turturdine Rock, and Coonmine Well to Coolgardie North Road. Luck started his track further north-east at the gold mining centre of Goongarie in 1894, however, following it from/to this point is problematic. Similarly, the portion of the Track from Southern Cross to Weowanie is impossible to follow because of modern day constructions and barriers.

Gus Luck was a consummate bushman of French origin who taught and mentored one of Australia’s greatest (though controversial) explorers, David Carnegie in the 1890s. Find out more about these two bushmen explorers here and here.

Ularring

There is mineral exploration activity at Ularring but very little else.

This dot on the map is the site of a infamous attack by local aborigines on Ernest Giles’ exploration party  in 1875. It has been suggested that the attack came about as a result of the unexpected and alarming amount of water that Giles’ camels were consuming from the soak. Whatever the reason, it was a determined, concerted, and organised attack on an interloping party that was ultimately determined by superior technology. Giles was usually a very flowery writer, however, his description of the attack was very matter of fact.

The track from Ularring leads to Bungalbin via a number of rockholes. Planned speed was an average 25 kph, however, we were able to maintain a speed above 40 kph.

21 kilometres along the track we passed a track coming in from the Evanston Menzies Road to the north. Nine kilometres further on is Yowie Rockan where another track comes in from the Evanston Menzies Road.

Six kilometres further on we hit a very rocky section of track.

Curara Rockhole and Well

There are numerous gnammas at Curara, 43 kilometres west-south-west from Ularring.

An Army Field Party located this rockhole and named it Cararah Rockhole in September 1963. It was also spelled as Karara Rockhole. Later investigation showed that the officially accepted spelling of the native tree after which it was named was ‘Curara’ and it was amended (along with about 13 other features incorrectly named Karara across the state). Curara is an acacia tree valued as fodder for stock.

The well at Currara Rockhole is in good condition. The placement of logs to protect and mark the well is distinctive.

We camped 15 kilometres past Curara Rockhole on the edge of McArthur Minerals’ active mining tenement.

Kurrajong Rockhole

Our drive south-west brought us to Kurrajong Rockhole.

Surveyor A. Henderson led a Field Party in this area in 1966 and named this rockhole during that trip, presumably after the Desert Kurrajong (Brachychiton gregorii ) prevalent in the area.

Getting away from Kurrajong proved difficult because of the numerous tracks that lead away from the rock. After a couple of false starts we found the correct track and again headed towards Bungalbin.

Pittosporum Rockhole

The Rockhole is closely surrounded by Pittosporum, a small tree with weeping habit and yellow flowers, hence the name. Ken Newbey requested the name for the rockhole in 1964. More information.

After a chat with some fellow travellers (opposite direction) we drove on.

Despite not making the planned overnight camp at Kurrajong Rockhole last night we were ahead of our schedule to rendezvous with Paul at the end of a track off Evanston Road later today. The track from Ularring was better and ‘faster’ than planned.

We arrived at Bungalbin around 10.00 a.m.

Bungalbin

The Mount Manning – Helena and Aurora Ranges Conservation Park is in the Great Western Woodland. Parts of the Conservation Park are under threat from mining and the area has been the subject of controversy for many years. Bungalbin is central to this.

The climb up Bungalbin on the Ridge Track is easy in dry weather but could require low range if wet. While a competent driver could get a camper trailer to the small cleared area at the top it is not worth the risk, given there are suitable areas to unhitch below. The track to the south is not suitable for camper trailers.

Rendezvous

From Bungalbin the track leads north-west to Mount Jackson.

At 13 kilometres I located a track to the north that I hoped would take us to Jimbine Rockhole, a rarely visited natural water collection point. The track was barely discernible for about 100 metres and then petered out. I drove cross country, uphill for about 250 metres without being able to locate the track. I had said to Aaron and Greg that we needed to return to the main track and just as I turned to join them I noticed the bare outline of a track heading north.

We followed this for 2.5 kilometres until it took us to a watercourse that we followed east for about 1600 metres. I then picked up a track heading north that I knew would take us close to Jimbine Rockhole. The track improved as we went north.

Jimbine Rockhole is a small, natural dam in a gully. In 1864 settler explorers Clarkson, Harper and Lukin found this native water supply during an exploring expedition north-east of Toodyay. There were numerous artifacts surrounding the rockhole, confirmation of its importance to aborigines in days past and also indicative of virtually non-existent visitation since Clarkson, Harper and Lukin.

We returned on our inward track and, with a short deviation, came out onto the Bulgalbin-Mt Jackson track.

There is a certain incongruity in coming out of a twisting, turning, narrow bush track onto a wide, sealed, modern haul road. Crossing it and then going back into the twisting, turning, small bush track makes you wonder if what you saw was real.

The track turns to the south-west at Marda and leads to a station dam and cattle yards.

Arriving at the Bullfinch Evanston Road we turned left, travelled 14 kilometres south-west and again turned left – this time onto a rarely used bush track. We had planned to meet with Paul late afternoon, seven kilometres in along this track.

During the afternoon we continued along the barely discernible track past where were intended to camp to determine if the track went to Yinyoungning Rockhole. On return to the campsite we had some unusual vehicle damage.

Paul arrived around 4.00 p.m. without Greg who had other engagements.

Prospecting

This part of the trip was designed as a ‘recce’ for an upcoming Gold Prospecting Trip. Aaron and Paul drove further along the track to some prospective ground and spent the morning with detectors having a good walk around the bush. Kim and Greg and Margot ‘rediscovered’ Yinyoungning Rockhole and then joined Aaron and Paul.

In the afternoon we moved to another patch of prospective ground 11 kilometres to the west for another good walk around the bush while diligently sweeping the ground for the elusive yellow metal.

Mount Jackson Station

On Sunday morning before departing for Cockburn we had a look around at the derelict Mount Jackson Station Homestead.

The journey home took us to Elachbutting Rock, Mukinbudin, Dowerin and Goomalling.

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Winnejup-Yeagarup-Wilga

Friday

It was cold, wet and miserable when we set up camp at Winnejup. Shelters and a fire improved the outlook.

There was consistent rain and wind throughout the night. The popups were welcome.

Saturday

We planned to drive to Yeagarup via Yornup, Wheatley, and Deanmill, rather than just beat down the bitumen to Manjimup and Pemberton. We changed our plan to stay ay Black Point, electing instead to stay two nights at Winnejup.

The way out of camp was blocked by a downed tree. We made short work or removing it from the road.

The road trip through the forest provided the opportunity to inspect a few interesting features.

As expected with the recent lifting of Covid19-related travel restrictions, it was very busy at the Air Down Point at the end of Ritter Road. Busier than the Australia Day long weekend.

After the first set of dunes it is another five kilometres of bush driving to the beach.

From the Air Down Point to the beach is just over 10 kilometres. Full details of the Yeagarup Track here.

There were lengthy delays getting to the beach as inexperienced drivers in other groups got stuck, bogged or both. The final dune before the beach was a challenge to a low slung Vitara and resulted in quite a delay.

The weather was unfriendly. We drove to the Warren River, contemplated the situation – particularly the wind and rain – and drove back to the exit off the beach.

The sand was damp and compacted and only mildly cut up so getting up Yeagarup Hill was not the challenge it normally presents.

With no time to visit Lake Jasper we headed to Pemberton, refuelled and drove back to Winnejup.

Sunday

Today was going to be a cruisy day.

We followed the Blackwood along Tweed Road to Bridgetown and continued to  hug the river out to The Peninsula and then along Radiata Road.

The river crossing at Southhampton was a departure from plan that took us to Greenbushes and then Balingup.

The Greenbushes Mine viewing platform was closed due to Covid 19 worries so we drove to Balingup. The road from Balingup  to Nannup is considered by many motoring enthusiasts to be one of the great drives in Western Australia.

Sweeping bends offer seemingly never ending views of forests or farmland. The Blackwood River is on the right and tall tree covered slopes on the left. The 41 kilometres of road between the two towns has 90 bends, making it popular with motorcycle and driving enthusiasts alike.

Lunch was at a very crowded Nannup and we then drove through the forest to the north of that hamlet.

We arrived at Grimwade early afternoon and found a good campsite, although most of the readily available firewood was a bit green.

Monday

Making a bee line for home on the last day of a trip is a no-no and, besides, we had plenty planned for the day.

At Wilga we got onto the abandoned Katanning-Donnybrook railway with a view to pushing through to Noggerup. That required a lot of swapping from one side of the railway to the other and much pushing through scrub.

We pushed through a particularly overgrown section of the railway and the side track then became serviceable.

After we cleared a fallen tree across the track at Noggerup the Road Trip was essentially finished. There remained only the drive back to Cockburn.

 

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Drive the Coast – Wedge to Cliff Head

We planned to drive 145 kilometres from Wedge to Cliff Head, as much as possible on the beach, during the xmas/New Year break.

Saturday was spent on the beach and dunes at Wedge.

Wedge to Milligan Island

We started our push north about 0930, shortly after Greg arrived.

Stromatolites are cyanobacteria that convert carbon dioxide to oxygen.

Stromatolites are ‘living fossils’ – exemplars of what life was like on Earth more than 3500 million years ago. At that time no other complex creatures were present on the planet. Stromatolites are built by microbes (single-celled cyanobacteria) that were the first forms of life on Earth. The cyanobacteria trap sediments with mucous to form enormous rock-like structures that, at first glance, don’t appear to be living. Each stromatolite is actually a very slow growing microbial colony that grows less than 1mm per year.

Apart from Lake Clifton south of Perth and Hamelin Pool in world heritage-listed Shark Bay, the only other known stromatolites are in the Bahamas and the Great Salt Lake, Utah.

The fishing and holiday town of Cervantes got its name from Cervantes Island two kilometres offshore to the south-west, which in turn got its name from an American whaling ship of the same name that was wrecked here. Read more.

Drovers Cave is 1.25 kilometres along  Sandy Point Road (a badly corrugated, loose sand track) from Jurien Road East, at 30°15’40.00″S 115° 5’33.00″E. The cave is not signposted and, depending on the amount of growth at the side of the track, it can be difficult to spot. Given that the entrance is blocked by a solid, locked iron door, in reality it is nothing more than a small hole in the ground. For the non-speleologist without a key to the lock it is not worth the effort of the vehicle-shaking, 2.5 kilometre round trip off the bitumen.

We returned to the bitumen and drove directly to Milligan Island Camping Node.

The Shire of Coorow is notorious for strictly enforcing its camping bylaws and, as a consequence of unrelenting demand to camp on the coast, developed the Milligan Island Camping Node, four kilometres north of Green Head. Thirty six bays without shade are offered to punters in what is a poor excuse for a campground.

The bays are paved with irregular-sized, crushed limestone. Not all bays are level (seriously). The onsite caretaker extracts $15 per vehicle per night from the hapless punter. Campgrounds of this level elsewhere would offer an ablution block (showers, flush toilets and, possibly, a laundry). Milligan offers long drop toilets and a boardwalk to a crappy beach.

Avoid it if you can. Go north of Leeman.

Milligan Island to Cliff Head

Four kilometres north of Milligan our way north was blocked by rocks. We were able to go off the beach, around the obstacle and resume our push along the edge of the ocean for a further five kilometres to Leeman.

The coastline north of Leeman is mostly cliffs to Coolimba.

Finding a weed-free beach suitable for fishing was difficult. We gave it a try just short of Coolimba.

Our way was blocked on the beach 2.5 kilometres north of Coolimba so we returned to the shacks and access track and drove out to Indian Ocean Drive. Ten kilometres north we turned into Gum Tree Bay and pushed north along the coast. The track led us into an extensive dune system through which we were unable to find a way north.

We turned back south for a kilometre and got onto the beach. Four kilometres to the north we were into another extensive sand dune system. Initially unable to find a way through, we eventually picked up the track along the cliffs and continued north.

The coastal drive finished at Cliff Head.

This Trip was part of the Drive the Coast Project.

 

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Granite Monsters

The Granite Monsters Road Trip toured some of the amazing granite outcrops that extend from the south-west tip of Australia to approximately 800 kilometres north-east on the edge of the Great Victoria Desert.

Mindebooka Hill

Our Granite Monsters Road Trip was held over the September long weekend in 2019. Eleven people in six vehicles met at Mindebooka Hill, 12 kilometres south-east of Doodlakine. A great camping spot and, at 215 kilometres ENE of Perth, it is a convenient location to ‘get out of town’ at the start of a road trip.

Surveyor H.S.King recorded the name for this granite outcrop in 1889 during his survey of the York-Goldfields Road. The name is of unknown origin.  The 320 metre high hill is in the middle of a 180 hectare triangle of bushland among long-established farmland. Just far enough off the highway not to be used by ‘grey nomads’, it is pretty much exclusively for the informed.

Often described as diurnal, kangaroos, along with wombats, wallabies, quolls, and possums are, more accurately, crepuscular.

We left Mindebooka for Totadgin Rock and picked up an access track along the old Bruce Rock railway that closely follows Hunts Track. The track exits onto the Bruce Rock-Merredin Road just two kilometres south of Totadgin Rock, where C.C. Hunt established one of his early wells.

Totadgin Rock

For many thousands of years granite outcrops like Totadgin provided aboriginal people with a source of reliable water in an essentially dry environment. Early explorers such as Roe, Lefroy, Hunt and Forrest quickly realised the importance of these inselbergs as natural water catchments and invaluable aids to navigation. Many of the large outcrops in the Wheatbelt were developed as water supplies by early settlers. The locations of towns such as Merredin were determined because they were near reliable water supplies – long before the Mundaring to Goldfields water pipeline was completed.

Runoff from the rock provides a bountiful supply of water to a band of thick vegetation around its base. Past this is a fringing woodland comprised mostly of York Gums that supports a diversity of marsupials, birds and insects.  The beginnings of a ‘wave’, typical of granite outcrops, is adjacent to the well that C.C. Hunt’s team established in 1865.

Explorer/Surveyor C.C. Hunt recorded the name for this rock in 1864 – an aboriginal word of unknown origin. This well was refurbished in 2016.

Burracoppin

Hunt’s Well at Landsdowne Hill, Burracoppin is north of the rock and nowhere close to where the directional sign is pointing. Look 120 metres to the east along the fenceline.

This well was refurbished in 2016 and is in reasonably good condition although it would be better protected if fenced.

An interpretative site for the No. 1 Rabbit Proof Fence is only a kilometre to the east of the well so we made a quick diversion.

J.S. Crawford wrote a very comprehensive history of the Rabbit Proof Fence – an early attempt at biosecurity – that is precised here.

We turned north towards Westonia and followed minor roads to Boodalin Soak.

Boodalin Soak

Boodalin Soak is on the Westonia Commons, just off Stoneman Road. Unlike Burracoppin Well, the signage here actually leads to the Soak.

In March 1865 C.C. Hunt’s track-and-well-making team opened out the native soak and created the dry stone well that is still in excellent condition today.

While improving the well during the 1866 Eastern Interior Expedition Hunt and his team assisted in the capture of Western Australia’s most notorious bushranger, Moondyne Joe.

Moondyne Joe (born Joseph Bolitho Johns) was a colourful character whose constant and defiant declarations of innocence – and frequent escapes – entertained the early settlers. Transported from England in 1855 for stealing food, his notoriety sprang from his numerous and successful jail breaks.

Joe and his two companions absconded from police custody and intended to head to South Australia by initially following Hunt’s line of conveniently placed wells. Knowing that Hunt and his party were working on tracks and wells to the east, Joe intended to steal fresh horses and rations from them at gun point.

The plan failed when the fugitives were sighted by sandalwood cutters near Youndegin and a search party was organised. Around midday on 29 September, a police party captured Joe and his friends at Boodalin. Hunt had been forewarned and he and his party assisted police troopers in the capture.We left Boodalin Soak and drove to the lookout at the Edna May mine.

The Edna May mine is an open pit gold operation that has been producing since 1911. Underground operations commenced in 2019. It is owned by Ramelius Resources. Jeff navigated the Road Trip from Westonia to Southern Cross. We stopped at Moorine Rock Well and Kodjerning Well along the way.

Moorine Rock

This granite monster was named by C.C. Hunt in 1865. It is an aboriginal name of unknown origin.

Kodjerning Well

We stopped briefly at Kodjerning Well and then pressed on to Great Eastern Highway. It was a short run to Southern Cross where we refuelled.

Koorkoordine Well

Koorkoordine Well is on the edge of Lake Koorkoordine – a large salt lake – yet interestingly it  provided C.C. Hunt’s well-and-track-making team with a good supply of fresh water in 1865. Hunt established a depot here from which he explored further to the east and south-east.

Hunt’s team improved Koorkoordine in 1866.

Earlier, in 1864, C.C. Hunt variously referred to the lake as ‘Kokoordine’ and later as ‘Kookoordine’. It was eventually rendered as Koorkoordine. The Shire of Yilgarn website purports this to mean ‘place of meat’ but offers no substantiation for the claim.

Prospectors Thomas Risely and Mick Toomey camped at this well prior to finding gold just to the south. This was one of the seminal gold discoveries in Western Australia – the prelude to the Coolgardie and Kalgoorlie gold rushes of the early 1890s. At the time they camped at Koorkoordine the well was dry, necessitating them to wait for rain before being able to move on. They used the stars of the Southern Cross to guide them back to Golden Valley and hence the name of the guiding constellation – The Crux–  was given to their find.

Our drive from Koorkoordine to Weowanie was just as convoluted. North from the well, past the Southern Cross Golf Club and onto Corinthia Road. Easy enough but it was from there that the difficulties arose. We needed to find a track heading east to Duladgin but the presence of a solidly made State Barrier Fence – and the lack of an access gate – thwarted our attempt.

We had to continue south towards Great Eastern Highway. A gate through the Fence opened possibilities of a track to the east but it gradually turned south-east and then south and eventually took us to the Great Eastern Highway.

It was then a short run to Yellowdine, from where we headed north to Duladgin Well and on to Weowanie Rock.

Weowanie Rock

The track from Duladgin to Weowanie Rock meanders through a mixture of thick woodland and open scrubland and passes very close to some small salt lakes. The last section of the track is very sandy and looks like it would be boggy when wet.

The campsite we wanted was occupied but after a bit of looking around we found a great spot – level, open, and plenty of firewood. The only downside was the flies – prolific and persistent.

In the morning we climbed the rock to the tank made by Hunt’s team in May 1865. Hunt recorded the name as Weonanie and it is not known how or when the change to Weowanie occurred although a transcription error would appear to be likely.

Koolyanobbing

The track north from Weowanie leads to a State Barrier Fence and then parallels it to Lake Seabrook. Juardi Station is on the other side of the fence.

A corduroy crossing is a trackway made by placing logs or sleepers across the road to get through a muddy or sandy section that would otherwise be impassable. Seen quite often in salt lake country.

This track eventually took us to the Southern Cross Koolyanobbing Road. There is not much to see at Koolyanobbing. It is strictly an accommodation/service town for the mining operations.

We headed south on the railway access track – intending to head west to Bullfinch just north of Lake Julia. That was not to be. Plan B  – head west on Perilya Turkey Hill Road – didn’t work either. Although shown on maps as connecting with the access track, these roads no longer do so. And they seem to have disappeared – whether by government agency decree, adverse possession or some other cause it is difficult to know.

 

We were eventually able to make our way to Bullfinch via Corinthia Road – way further south than what we wanted. From Bullfinch we drove to popular Baladgie Rock.

Baladgie Rock

The summit of the rock offers great views of the lake and surrounding farmland. The day was heating up and not everyone climbed.

This is a very popular free camp location with plenty of protected sites. Unusually, it was unpopulated at the time of our visit.

C.E. Dempster named this ‘Mount Hardey’ during a private exploration in 1861 but that name was not used because of duplication with the name of a hill in York.

C.C. Hunt recorded it as ‘Balahgin Rock’ during his explorations in 1864, then as ‘Baladgin’ during subsequent observations. Surveyor H.S. King recorded it as ‘Balajie Rock’ and ‘Baladgee Rk’ during surveys when he established his trig station ‘HK2’ on the summit in 1889.

Elachbutting Rock

We took backroads to Elachbutting Rock – an inselberg/monadnock that is considered to be bigger, better and more pristine than any other Wheatbelt granite rock formation.

A 4WD track leads to the top of Elachbutting Rock – providing great views of the surrounding farmland. The paddocks immediately in front of the ‘carpark’ are being ‘alley-farmed‘.

Surveyor H.S.King recorded the name for this huge granite outcrop in 1889.

Elachbutting Rock is a popular camping spot and has been the setting for a number of weddings and other gatherings.

Montys Pass was created when a huge section of the the surface of Elachbutting Rock weathered sufficiently that it slipped. The ‘cave’ at the end of the Pass is actually a tafone.

Beringbooding Rock

This is another popular free camp.  Beringbooding has the largest rock water catchment tank in Australia and is a great example of harvesting water. It was built in 1937 using ‘sustenance labour’ at a 2018-calculated cost of $923,000. The concrete tank holds 10,000,000 litres of harvested water. The roof is looking sad and, without intervention, will be gone in a few years.

H.S. King established his trig station ‘HK96’ on this rock in 1889 and while he recorded the name it is of unknown origin.

We turned south looking for the most direct route to Mukinbudin, along the way passing through  Jouerdine Nature Reserve.

Jouerdine Nature Reserve

This 1800 hectare Nature Reserve protects the critically endangered hinged dragon orchid Caladenia drakeoides. The track through the Reserve is part of the abandoned Old Mount Jackson Road and is an unexpected treat for four wheel drivers, requiring attention and care. Midway through the drive is a small, tucked-away camping area.

Mukinbudin

If the town of Mukinbudin had more water to green up the grounds of the Caravan Park, it would be a stand out location. It is still a top stay with individual ensuites, a well appointed camp kitchen, bbq area/shelter and an open fireplace with plenty of firewood.

Eaglestone Rock

We headed south from ‘Muka’ to Merredin via Eaglestone Rock and Lake Campion.

This granite outcrop offers great views of Lake Campion, nearby farms and distant hills after an easy climb. When conditions are right the reserve is a mass of wildflowers and consequently is a very popular camping spot. A prominent part of Eaglestone Rock requires specialised climbing gear. Surveyor General J.S. Roe named these rocks in 1836.

A narrow, twisting track follows the edge of the lake. It is powdery and dusty, and is an interesting drive.

We followed the track along a narrow finger of land between Lake Campion on the left and a small lake on the right (actually just another part of Lake Campion) until it reduced to a single motorcycle track. Time to turn around.

We backtracked to a diversion around the small lake but this, too, petered out to a motorcycle track. Aaron persisted and made a track to the lake and then drove along the edge to the causeway. It provided a reasonably firm track if a good speed was maintained.

Mike/Sue and Jeff/Micaela found their own way through to the causeway without driving on the lake. Now known as Lake Campion Track.

After our ‘success’ of getting through from the rock we headed direct to Merredin. After refuelling we embarked on what became a fascinating drive through the wheatbelt to Toodyay.

 

The Road Trip finished in Toodyay.

 

© Kim Epton 2019-2021
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Kim Epton
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